A U G U S T 1 8 9 7
![]()
by
John Muir
Please note: Several words in the original text were missing due to
damage; in these instances, the editors have made the best educated guesses they
could.
THE forests of
America, however slighted by man, must have been a great delight to God; for
they were the best he ever planted. The whole continent was a garden, and from
the beginning it seemed to be favored above all the other wild parks and gardens
of the globe. To prepare the ground, it was rolled and sifted in seas with
infinite loving deliberation and forethought, lifted into the light, submerged
and warmed over and over again, pressed and crumpled into folds and ridges,
mountains and hills, subsoiled with heaving volcanic fires, ploughed and ground
and sculptured into scenery and soil with glaciers and rivers, -- every feature
growing and changing from beauty to beauty, higher and higher. And in the
fullness of time it was planted in groves, and belts, and broad, exuberant,
mantling forests, with the largest, most varied, most fruitful, and most
beautiful trees in the world. Bright seas made its border with wave embroidery
and icebergs; gray deserts were outspread in the middle of it, mossy tundras on
the north, savannas on the south, and blooming prairies and plains; while lakes
and rivers shone through all the vast forests and openings, and happy birds and
beasts gave delightful animation. Everywhere, everywhere over all blessed
continent, there were beauty, and melody, and kindly, wholesome, foodful
abundance.
These
forests were composed of about five hundred species of trees, all of them in
some way useful to man, ranging in size from twenty-five feet in height and less
than one foot in diameter at the ground to four hundred feet in height and more
than twenty feet in diameter -- lordly monarchs proclaiming the gospel of beauty
like apostles. For many a century after the ice-ploughs were melted, nature fed
them and dressed them every day; working like a man, a loving, devoted,
painstaking gardener; fingering every leaf and flower and mossy furrowed bole;
bending, trimming, modeling, balancing, painting them with the loveliest colors;
bringing over them now clouds with cooling shadows and showers, now sunshine;
fanning them with gentle winds and rustling their leaves; exercising them in
every fibre with storms, and pruning them; loading them with flowers and fruit,
loading them with snow, and ever making them more beautiful as the years rolled
by. Wide-branching oak and elm in endless variety, walnut and maple, chestnut
and beech, flex and locust, touching limb to limb, spread a leafy translucent
canopy along the coast of the Atlantic over the wrinkled folds and ridges of the
Alleghanies, -- a green billowy sea in summer, golden and purple in autumn,
pearly gray like a steadfast frozen mist of interlacing branches and sprays in
leafless, restful winter.
To the southward stretched dark, level-topped cypresses in knobby, tangled swamps, grassy savannas in the midst of them like lakes of light, groves of gay sparkling spice-trees, magnolias and palms, glossy-leaved and blooming and [bending?] continually. To the northward, [over?] Maine and the Ottawa, rose hosts of spiry, rosiny evergreens, -- white pine and spruce, hemlock and cedar, shoulder to shoulder, laden with purple cones, their myriad needles sparkling and shimmering, covering hills and swamps, rocky headlands and domes, ever bravely aspiring and seeking the sky; the ground in their shade now snow-clad and frozen, now mossy and flowery; beaver meadows here and there, full of lilies and grass; lakes gleaming like eyes, and a silvery embroidery of rivers and creeks watering and brightening all the vast glad wilderness.
Thence
westward were oak and elm, hickory and tupelo, gum and liriodendron, sassafras
and ash, linden and laurel, spreading on ever wider in glorious exuberance over
the great fertile basin of the Mississippi, over damp level bottoms, low
dimpling hollows, and round dotting hills, embosoming sunny prairies and cheery
park openings, half sunshine, half shade; while a dark wilderness of pines
covered the region around the Great Lakes. Thence still westward swept the
forests to right and left around grassy plains and deserts a thousand miles
wide: irrepressible hosts of spruce and pine, aspen and willow, nut-pine and
juniper, cactus and yucca, caring nothing for drought, extending undaunted from
mountain to mountain, over mesa and desert, to join the darkening multitudes of
pines that covered the high Rocky ranges and the glorious forests along the
coast of the moist and balmy Pacific, where new species of pine, giant cedars
and spruces, silver firs and sequoias, kings of their race, growing close
together like grass in a meadow, poised their brave domes and spires in the sky
three hundred feet above the ferns and the lilies that enameled the ground;
towering serene through the long centuries, preaching God's forestry fresh from
heaven.
Here
the forests reached their highest development. Hence they went wavering
northward over icy Alaska, brave spruce and fir, poplar and birch, by the coasts
and the rivers, to within sight of the Arctic Ocean. American forests! the glory
of the world! Surveyed thus from the east to the west, from the north to the
south, they are rich beyond thought, immortal, immeasurable, enough and to spare
for every feeding, sheltering beast and bird, insect and son of Adam; and nobody
need have cared had there been no pines in Norway, no cedars and deodars on
Lebanon and the Himalayas, no vine-clad selves in the basin of the Amazon. With
such variety, harmony, and triumphant exuberance, even nature, it would seem,
might have rested content with the forests of North America, and planted no
more.
So
they appeared a few centuries ago when they were rejoicing in wildness. The
Indians with stone axes could them no more harm than could gnawing beavers and
browsing moose. Even the fires of the Indians and the fierce shattering
lightning seemed to work together only for good in clearing spots, here and
there for smooth garden prairies, and openings for sunflowers seeking the light.
But when the steel axe of the white man rang out in the startled air their doom
was sealed. Every tree heard the bodeful sound, and pillars of smoke gave the
sign in the sky.
I
suppose we need not go mourning the buffaloes. In the nature of things they had
to give place to better cattle, though the change might have been made without
barbarous wickedness. Likewise many of nature's five hundred kind of wild trees
had to make way for orchards and cornfields. In the settlement and civilization
of the country, bread more than timber or beauty was wanted and in the blindness
of hunger, the early settlers, claiming Heaven as their guide, regarded God's
trees as only a larger kind of pernicious weeds, extremely hard to get rid of.
Accordingly, with no eye to the future, these pious destroyers waged
interminable forest wars; chips flew thick and fast; trees in their beauty fell
crashing by millions, smashed to confusion, and the smoke of their burning has
been rising to heaven more than two hundred years. After the Atlantic coast from
Maine to Georgia had been mostly cleared and scorched into melancholy ruins, the
overflowing multitude of bread and money seekers poured over the Alleghanies
into the fertile middle West, spreading ruthless devastation ever wider and
farther over the rich valley of the Mississippi and the vast shadowy pine region
about the Great Lakes. Thence still westward the invading horde of destroyers
called settlers made its fiery way over the broad Rocky Mountains, felling and
burning more fiercely than ever, until at last it has reached the wild side of
the continent, and entered the last of the great aboriginal forests on the
shores of the Pacific.
Surely,
then, it should not be wondered at that lovers of their country, bewailing its
baldness, are now crying aloud, " Save what is left of the forests! "
Clearing has surely now gone far enough; soon timber will be scarce, and not a
grove will be left to rest in or pray in. The remnant protected will yield
plenty of timber, a perennial harvest for every right use, without further
diminution of area, and will continue to cover the springs of the rivers that
rise in the mountains and give irrigating waters to the dry valleys at their
feet, prevent wasting floods and be a blessing to everyone forever.
Every
other civilized nation in the world has been compelled to care for its forests,
and so must we if waste and destruction are not to go on to the bitter end,
leaving America as barren as Palestine or Spain. In its calmer moments in the
midst of bewildering hunger and war and restless over-industry, Prussia has
learned that the forest plays an important part in human progress, and that the
advance in civilization only makes it more indispensable. It has, therefore, as
shown by Mr. Pinchot, refused to deliver its forests to more or less speedy
destruction by permitting them to pass into private ownership. But the state of
woodlands are not allowed to lie idle. On the contrary, they are made to produce
as much timber as is possible without spoiling them. In the administration of
its forests, the state righteously considers itself bound to treat them as a
trust for the nation as a whole, and to keep in view the common good of the
people for all time.
In
France no government forests have been sold since 1870. On the other hand, about
one half of the fifty million francs spent on forestry has been given to
engineering works, to make the replanting of denuded areas possible. The
disappearance of the forests in the first place, it is claimed, may be traced in
most cases directly to mountain pasturage. The provisions of the code concerning
private woodlands are substantially these: No private owner may clear his
woodlands without giving notice to the government at least four months in
advance, and the forest service may forbid the clearing on the following
grounds: to maintain the soil on mountains, to defend the soil against erosion
and flooding by rivers or torrents, to insure the existence of springs and
watercourses, to protect the dunes and seashore, etc. [The?] proprietor who has
cleared his forest without permission is subject to [heavy?] fine[s], and in
addition may be made to [re]plant the cleared area.
In
Switzerland, after many laws [of?] our own had been found wanting, the Swiss
forest school was established in 1865, and soon after the Federal Forest Law was
enacted, which is binding over nearly two thirds of the country. Under its
provisions, the cantons must appoint and pay the number of suitably educated
foresters required for the fulfillment of the forest law; and in the
organization of a normally stocked forest, the object of first importance must
be the cutting each year of an amount of timber equal to the total annual
increase, and no more.
The
Russian government passed a law in 1888, declaring that clearing is forbidden in
protection forests, and is allowed in others "only when its effects will
not be to disturb the suitable relations which should exist between forest and
agricultural lands."
Even
Japan is ahead of us in the management of her forests. They cover an area of
about 29,000,000 acres. The feudal lords valued the woodlands, and enacted
vigorous protective laws; and when, in the latest civil war, the Mikado
government destroyed the feudal system, it declared the forests that had
belonged to the feudal lords to be the property of the state, promulgated a
forest law binding on the whole kingdom, and founded a school of forestry in
Tokio [sic]. The forest service does not rest satisfied with the present
proportion of woodland, but looks to planting the best forest trees it can find
in any country, if likely to be useful and to thrive in Japan.
In
India systematic forest management was begun about forty years ago, under
difficulties -- presented by the character of the country, the prevalence of
running fires, opposition from lumbermen, settlers, etc. -- not unlike those
which confront us now. Of the total area of government forests, perhaps
[100],000,000 acres, 55,000,000 acres have been brought under the control of the
forestry department, -- a larger area than that of all our national parks and
reservations. The chief aims of the administration are effective protection of
the forests from fire, an efficient system of regeneration, and cheap
transportation of the forest products; the results so far have been most
beneficial and encouraging.
It
seems, therefore, that almost every civilized nation can give us a lesson on the
management and care of forests. So far our government has done nothing effective
with its forests, though the best in the world, but is like a rich and foolish
spendthrift who has inherited a magnificent estate in perfect order, and then
has left his rich fields and meadows, forests and parks, to be sold and
plundered and wasted at will, depending on their inexhaustible abundance. Now it
is plain that the forests are not inexhaustible, and that quick measures must be
taken if ruin is to be avoided. Year by year the remnant is growing smaller
before the axe and fire, while the laws in existence provide neither for the
protection of the timber from destruction nor for its use where it is most
needed.
As
is shown by Mr. E. A. Bowers, formerly Inspector of the Public Land Service, the
foundation of our protective policy, which has never protected, is an act passed
March 1, 1817, which authorized the Secretary of the Navy to reserve lands
producing live-oak and cedar, for the sole purpose of supplying timber for the
navy of the United States. An extension of this law by the passage of the act of
March 2, 1831, provided that if any person should cut live-oak or red cedar
trees or other timber from the lands of the United States for any other purpose
than the construction of the navy, such person should pay a fine not less than
triple the value of the timber cut, and be imprisoned for a period not exceeding
twelve months. Upon this old law, as Mr. Bowers points out, having the
construction of a wooden navy in view, the United States government has today
chiefly to rely in protecting its timber throughout the arid regions of the
West, where none of the naval timber which the law had in mind is to be found.
By
the act of June 3, 1878, timber can be taken from public lands not subject to
entry under any existing laws, except for minerals, by bona fide[? word
missing] of the Rocky Mountain States Territories and the Dakotas. Under the
timber and stone act, of the same date, land in the Pacific States and Nevada,
valuable mainly for timber, and unfit for cultivation if the timber is removed,
can be purchased for two dollars and a half an acre, under certain restrictions.
By the act of March 3, 1875, all land-grant and right-of-way railroads are
authorized to take timber from the public lands adjacent to their lines for
construction purposes; and they have taken it with a vengeance, destroying a
hundred times more than they have used, mostly by allowing fires to run into the
woods. The settlement laws, under which a settler may enter lands valuable for
timber as well as for agriculture, furnish another means of obtaining title to
public timber.
With
the exception of the timber culture act, under which, in consideration of
planting a few acres of seedlings, settlers on the treeless plains got 160 acres
each, the above is the only legislation aiming to protect and promote the
planting of forests. In no other way than under some one of these laws can a
citizen of the United States make any use of the public forests. To show the
results of the timber-planting act, it need only be stated that of the
38,000,000 acres entered under it, less than 1,000,000 acres have been patented.
This means that less than 50,000 acres have been planted with stunted,
woebegone, almost hopeless sprouts of trees, while at the same time the
government has allowed millions of acres of the grandest forest trees to be
stolen, or destroyed,or sold for nothing. Under the act of June 3, 1878,
settlers in Colorado and tbe Territories were allowed to cut timber for mining
and agricultural purposes from mineral land, which in the practical West means
both cutting and burning anywhere and everywhere, for any purpose on any sort of
public land. [The] prospector, the miner, and [the] railroad companies are
allowed by law to take all the timber they like for their mines and roads, and
the forbidden settler, if there are no mineral lands near his farm or
stock-ranch, or none that he knows of, can hardly be expected to forbear taking
what he needs wherever he can find it. Timber is as necessary as bread, and no
scheme of management failing to recognize and properly provide for this want can
possibly be maintained. In any case, it will be hard to teach the pioneers that
it is wrong to steal government timber. Taking from the government is with them
the same as taking from nature, and their consciences flinch no more in cutting
timber from the wild forests than in drawing water from a lake or river. As for
reservation and protection of forests, it seems as silly and needless to them as
protection and reservation of the ocean would be; both appearing to be boundless
and inexhaustible.
The
special land agents employed by the General Land Office to protect the public
domain from timber depredations are supposed to collect testimony to sustain
prosecution, and to superintend such prosecution on behalf of the government,
which is represented by the district attorneys. But timber-thieves of the
Western class are seldom convicted, for the good reason that most of the jurors
who try such cases are themselves as guilty as those on trial. The effect of the
present confused, discriminating, and unjust system has been to place almost the
whole population in opposition to the government; and as conclusive of its
futility, as shown by Mr. Bowers, we need only state that during the seven years
from 1881 to 1887 inclusive the value of the timber reported stolen from the
government lands was $36,719,935, and the amount recovered was $478,073, while
the cost of the services of special agents alone was $455,000, to which must be
added the expense of the trials. Thus for nearly thirty-seven million dollars'
worth of timber the government got less than nothing; and the value of that
consumed by running fires during the same period, without benefit even to
thieves, was probably over two hundred millions of dollars. Land commissioners
and Secretaries of the Interior have repeatedly called attention to this ruinous
state of affairs, and asked Congress to enact the requisite legislation for
reasonable reform. But, busied with tariffs, etc., Congress has given no heed to
these or other appeals, and our forests, the most valuable and the most
destructible of all the natural resources of the country, are being robbed and
burned more rapidly than ever. The annual appropriation for so-called
"protection service" is hardly sufficient to keep twenty-five timber
agents in the field, and as far as any efficient protection of timber is
concerned these agents themselves might as well be timber.
That
a change from robbery and ruin to a permanent rational policy is urgently needed
nobody with the slightest knowledge of American forests will deny. In the East
and along the northern Pacific coast, where the rainfall is abundant,
comparatively few care keenly what becomes of the trees as long as fuel and
lumber are not noticeably dear. But in the Rocky Mountains and California and
Arizona, where the forests are inflammable, and where the fertility of the
lowlands depends upon irrigation, public opinion is growing stronger every year
in favor of permanent protection by the federal government of all the forests
that cover the sources of the streams. Even lumbermen in these regions, long
accustomed to steal, are now willing and anxious to buy lumber for their mills
under cover of law: some possibly from a late second growth of honesty, but
most, especially the small mill-owners, simply because it no longer pays to
steal where all may not only steal, but also destroy, and in particular because
it costs about as much to steal timber for one mill as for ten, and therefore
the ordinary lumberman can no longer compete with the large corporations. Many
of the miners find that timber is already becoming scarce and dear on the
denuded hills around their mills, and they too are asking for protection of
forests, at least against fire. The slow-going, unthrifty farmers, also, are
beginning to realize that when the timber is stripped from the mountains the
irrigating streams dry up in summer, and are destructive in winter; that soil,
scenery, and everything slips off with the trees: so of course they are coming
into the ranks of tree-friends.
Of
all the magnificent coniferous forests around the Great Lakes, once the property
of the United States, scarcely any belong to it now. They have disappeared in
lumber and smoke, mostly smoke, and the government got not one cent for them;
only the land they were growing on was considered valuable, and two and a half
dollars an acre was charged for it. Here and there in the Southern States there
are still considerable areas of timbered government land, but these are
comparatively unimportant. Only the forests of the West are significant in size
and value, and these, although still great, are rapidly vanishing. Last summer,
of the unrivaled redwood forests of the Pacific Coast Range the United States
Forestry Commission could not find a single quarter-section that remained in the
hands of the government.
Under
the timber and stone act of 1878, which might well have been called the
"dust and ashes act," any citizen of the United States could take up
one hundred and sixty acres of timber land, and by paying two dollars and a half
for it obtain title. There was some virtuous effort made with a view to limit
the operations of the act by requiring that the purchaser should make affidavit
that he was entering the land exclusively for his own use and by not allowing
any association to enter more than one hundred and sixty acres. Nevertheless
under this act wealthy corporations have fraudulently obtained title to from ten
thousand to twenty thousand acres or more. The plan was usually as follows: A
mill company desirous of getting title to a large body of redwood or sugar-pine
land first blurred the eyes and ears of the land agents, and then hired men to
enter the land they wanted, and immediately deed it to the company after a
nominal compliance with the law; false swearing in the wilderness against the
government being held of no account. In one case which came under the
observation of Mr. Bowers, it was the practice of a lumber company to hire the
entire crew of every vessel which might happen to touch at any port in the
redwood belt, to enter one hundred and sixty acres each and immediately deed the
land to the company, in consideration of the company's paying all expenses and
giving the jolly sailors fifty dollars apiece for their trouble.
By
such methods have our magnificent redwoods and much of the sugar-pine forests of
the Sierra Nevada been absorbed by foreign and resident capitalists. Uncle Sam
is not often called a fool in business matters, yet he has sold millions of
acres of timber land at two dollars and a half an acre on which a single tree
was worth more than a hundred dollars. But this priceless land has been
patented, and nothing can be done now about the crazy bargain. According to the
everlasting laws of righteousness, even the fraudful buyers at less then one per
cent of its value are making little or nothing, on account of fierce
competition. The trees are felled, and about half of each giant is left on the
ground to beconverted into smoke and ashes; the better half is sawed into choice
lumber and sold to citizens of the United States or to foreigners: thus robbing
the country of its glory and impoverishing it without right benefit to anybody,
-- a bad, black business from beginning to end.
The
redwood is one of the few conifers that sprout from the stump and roots, and it
declares itself willing to begin immediately to repair the damage of the
lumberman and also that of the forest-burner. As soon as a redwood is cut down
or burned it sends up a crowd of eager, hopeful shoots, which, if allowed to
grow, would in a few decades attain a height of a hundred feet, and the
strongest of them would finally become giants as great as the original tree.
Gigantic second and third growth trees are found in the redwoods, forming
magnificent temple-like circles around charred ruins more than a thousand years
old. But not one denuded acre in a hundred is allowed to raise a new forest
growth. Ou the contrary, all the brains, religion, and superstition of the
neighborhood are brought into play to prevent a new growth. The sprouts from the
roots and stumps are cut off again and again, with zealous concern as to the
best time and method of making death sure. In the clearings of one of the
largest mills on the coast we found thirty men at work, last summer, cutting off
redwood shoots "in the dark of the moon," claiming that all the stumps
and roots cleared at this auspicious time would send up no more shoots. Anyhow,
these vigorous, almost immortal trees are killed at last, and black stumps are
now their only monuments over most of the chopped and burned areas.
The
redwood is the glory of the Coast Range. It extends along the western slope, in
a nearly continuous belt about ten miles wide, from beyond tbe Oregon boundary
to the south of Santa Cruz, a distance of nearly four hundred miles, and in
massive, sustained grandeur and closeness of growth surpasses all the other
timber woods of the world. Trees from ten to fifteen feet in diameter and three
hundred feet high are not uncommon, and a few attain a height of three hundred
and fifty feet, or even four hundred, with a diameter at the base of fifteen to
twenty feet or more, while the ground beneath them is a garden of fresh,
exuberant ferns, lilies, gaultheria, and rhododendron. This grand tree, Sequoia
sempervirens, is surpassed in size only by its near relative, Sequoia gigantea,
or big tree, of the Sierra Nevada, if indeed it is surpassed. The sempervirens
is certainly the taller of the two. The gigantea attains a greater girth, and is
heavier, more noble in port, and more sublimely beautiful. These two sequoias
are all that are known to exist in the world, though in former geological times
the genus was common and had many species. The redwood is restricted to the
Coast Range, and the big tree to the Sierra.
As
timber the redwood is too good to live. The largest sawmills ever built are busy
along its seaward border, "with all the modern improvements," but so
immense is the yield per acre it will be long ere the supply is exhausted. The
big tree is also to some extent being made into lumber. Though far less abundant
than the redwood, it is, fortunately, less accessible, extending along the
western flank of the Sierra in a partially interrupted belt about two hundred
and fifty miles long, at a height of from four to eight thousand feet above the
sea. The enormous logs, too heavy to handle, are blasted into manageable
dimensions with gunpowder. A large portion of the best timber is thus shattered
and destroyed, and, with the huge knotty tops, is left in ruins for tremendous
fires that kill every tree within their range, great and small. Still, the
species is not in danger of extinction. It has been planted and is flourishing
over a great part of Europe, and magnificent sections of the aboriginal forests
have been reserved as national and state parks, -- the Mariposa Sequoia Grove,
near Yosemite, managed by the State of California, and the General Grant and
Sequoia national parks on the King's, Kaweah, and Tule rivers, efficiently
guarded by a small troop of United States cavalry under the direction of the
Secretary of the Interior. But there is not a single specimen of the redwood in
any national park. Only by gift purchase, so far as I know, can the government
get back into its possession a single acre of this wonderful forest.
The
legitimate demands on the forests that have passed into private ownership as
well as those in the hands of the goverrnment, are increasing every year with
the rapid settlement and upbuilding of the country, but the methods of lumbering
are as yet grossly wasteful. In most mills only the best portions of the best
trees are used, while the ruins are left on the ground to feed great fires which
kill much of what is left of the less desirable timber, together with the
seedlings on which the permanence of the forest depends. Thus every mill is a
centre of destruction far more severe from waste and fire than from use. The
same thing is true of the mines, which consume and destroy indirectly immense
quantities of timber with their innumerable fires, accidental or set to make
open ways, and often without regard to how far they run. The prospector
deliberately sets fires to clear off the woods just where they are densest, to
lay the rocks bare and make the discovery of mines easier. Sheep-owners and
their shepherds also set fires everywhere through the woods in the fall to
facilitate the march of their countless flocks the next summer, and perhaps in
some places to improve the pasturage. The axe is not yet at the root of every
tree, but the sheep is, or was before the national parks were established and
guarded by the military, the only effective and reliable arm of the government
free from the blight of politics. Not only do the shepherds, at the driest time
of the year, set fire to everything that will burn, but the sheep consume every
green leaf, not sparing even the young conifers when they are in a starving
condition from crowding, and they rake and dibble the loose soil of the mountain
sides for the spring floods to wash away, and thus at last leave the ground
barren.
Of
all the destroyers that infest the woods the shake-maker seems the happiest.
Twenty or thirty years ago, shakes, a kind of long boardlike shingles split with
a mallet and a frow, were in great demand for covering barns and sheds, and many
are used still in preference to common shingles, especially those made from the
sugar-pine, which do not warp or crack in the hottest sunshine. Drifting
adventurers in California, after harvest and threshing are over, oftentimes meet
to discuss their plans for the winter, and their talk is interesting. Once, in a
company of this kind, I heard a man say, as he peacefully smoked his pipe:
" BOYS, as soon as this job's done I'm goin' into the duck business.
There's big money in it, and your grub costs nothing. Tule Joe made five hundred
dollars last winter on mallard and teal. Shot 'em on the Joaquin, tied 'em in
dozens by the neck, and shipped 'em to San Francisco. And when he was tired
wading in the sloughs and touched with rheumatiz, he just knocked off on ducks,
and went to the Contra Costa hills for dove and quail. It's a mighty good
business, and you're your own boss, and the whole thing's fun."
Another
of the company, a bushy-bearded fellow, with a trace of brag in his voice,
drawled out: "Bird business is well enough for some, but bear is my game,
with a deer and a California lion thrown in now and then for change. There's
always a market for bear grease, and sometimes you can sell the hams. They're
good as hog hams any day. And you are your own boss in my business too, if the
bears ain't too big and too many for you. Old grizzlies I despise -- they want
cannon to kill 'em; but the blacks and browns are beauties for grease, and when
once I get 'em just right, and draw a bead on 'em, I fetch 'em every time."
Another said he was going to catch up a lot of mustangs as soon as the rains set
in, hitch them to a gang-plough, and go to farming on the San Joaquin plains for
wheat. But most preferred the shake business, until something more profitable
and as sure could be found, with equal comfort and independence.
With
a cheap mustang or mule to carry a pair of blankets, a sack of flour, a few
pounds of coffee, and an axe, a frow, and a cross-cut saw, the shake-maker
ascends the mountains to the pine belt where it is most accessible, usually by
some mine or mill road. Then he strikes off into the virgin woods, where the
sugar-pine, king of all the hundred species of pines in the world in size and
beauty, towers on the open sunny slopes of the Sierra in the fullness of its
glory. Selecting a favorable spot for a cabin near a meadow with a stream, he
unpacks his animal and stakes it out on the meadow. Then he chops into one after
another of the pines, until he finds one that he feels sure will split freely,
cuts this down, saws off a section four feet long, splits it, and from this
first cut, perhaps seven feet in diameter, he gets shakes enough for a cabin and
its furniture, -- walls, roof, door, bedstead, table, and stool. Besides his
labor, only a few pounds of nails are required. Sapling poles form the frame of
the airy building, usually about six feet by eight in size, on which the shakes
are nailed, with the edges overlapping. A few bolts from the same section that
the shakes were made from are split into square sticks and built up to form a
chimney, the inside and interspaces being plastered and filled in with mud.
Thus, with abundance of fuel, shelter and comfort by his own fireside are
secured. Then he goes to work sawing and splitting for the market, tying the
shakes in bundles of fifty or a hundred. They are four feet long, four inches
wide, and about one fourth of an inch thick. The first few thousands he sells or
trades at the nearest mill or store, getting provisions in exchange. Then he
advertises, in whatever way he ean, that he has excellent sugar-pine shakes for
sale, easy of access and cheap.
Only
the lower, perfectly clear, freesplitting portions of the giant pines are used,
-- perhaps ten to twenty feet from a tree two hundred and fifty in height; all
the rest is left a mass of ruins, to rot or to feed the forest fires, while
thousands are hacked deeply and rejected in proving the grain. Over nearly all
of the more accessible slopes of the Sierra and Cascade mountains in southern
Oregon, at a height of from three to six thousand feet above the sea, and for a
distance of about six hundred miles, this waste and confusion extends. Happy
robbers! dwelling in the most beautiful woods, in the most salubrious climate,
breathing delightful [odors] both day and night, drinking cool living water, --
roses and lilies at their feet in the spring, shedding fragrance and ringing
bells as if cheering them on in their desolating work. There is none to say them
nay. They buy no land, pay no taxes, dwell in a paradise with no forbidding
angel either from Washington or from heaven. Every one of the frail shake
shanties is a centre of destruction, and the extent of the ravages wrought in
this quiet way is in the aggregate enormous.
It
is not generally known that, notwithstanding the immense quantities of timber
eut every year for foreign and home markets and mines, from five to ten times as
much is destroyed as is used, chiefly by running forest fires that only the
federal government can stop. Travelers through the West in summer are not likely
to forget the fire-work displayed along the various railway tracks. Thoreau,
when contemplating the destruction of the forests on the east side of the
continent, said that soon the country would be so bald that every man would have
to grow whiskers to hide its nakedness, but he thanked God that at least the sky
was safe. Had he gone West he would have found out that the sky was not safe;
for all through the summer months, over most of the mountain regions, the smoke
of mill and forest fires is so thick and black that no sunbeam can pierce it.
The whole sky, with clouds, sun, moon, and stars,is simply blotted out. There is
no real sky and no scenery. Not a mountain is left in the landscape. At least
none is in sight from the lowlands, and they all might as well be on the moon,
as far as scenery is concerned.
The
half dozen transcontinental railroad companies advertise the beauties of their
lines in gorgeous many-colored folders, each claiming its as the "scenic
route." "The route of superior desolation" -- the smoke, dust,
and ashes route -- would be a more truthful description. Every train rolls on
through dismal smoke and barbarous melancholy ruins; and the companies might
well cry in their advertisements: " Come! travel our way. Ours is the
blackest. It is the only genuine Erebus route. The sky is black and the ground
is black, and on either side there is a continuous border of black stumps and
logs and blasted trees appealing to heaven for help as if still half alive, and
their mute eloquence is most interestingly touching. The blackness is perfect.
On account of the superior skill of our workmen, advantages of climate, and the
kind of trees, the charring is generally deeper along our line, and the ashes
are deeper, and the confusion and desolation displayed can never be rivaled. No
other route on this continent so fully illustrates the abomination of
desolation." Such claim would be reasonable, as each seems the worst,
whatever route you chance to take.
Of
course a way had to be cleared through the woods. But the felled timber is not
worked up into firewood for the engines and into lumber for company's use: it is
left lying in vulgar confusion, and is fired from time to time by sparks from
locomotives or by the workmen camping along the line. The fires, whether
accidental or set, are allowed to run into the woods as far as they may, thus
assuring comprehensive destruction. The directors of a line that guarded against
fires, and cleared a clean gap edged with living trees, and fringed and mantled
with the grass and flowers and beautiful seedlings that are ever ready and
willing to spring up, might justly boast of the beauty of their road; for nature
is always ready to heal every scar. But there is no such road on the western
side of the continent. Last summer, in the Rocky Mountains, I saw six fires
started by sparks from a locomotive within a distance of three miles, and nobody
was in sight to prevent them from spreading. They might run into the adjacent
forests and burn the timber from hundreds of square miles; not a man in the
State would care to spend an hour in fighting them, as long as his own fences
and buildings were not threatened.
Notwithstanding
all the waste and use which have been going on unchecked like a storm for more
than two centuries, it is not yet too late, though it is high time, for the
government to begin a rational administration of its forests. About seventy
million acres it still owns, -- enough for all the country, if wisely used.
These residual forests are generally on mountain slopes, just where they are
doing the most good, and where their removal would be followed by the greatest
number of evils; the lands they cover are too rocky and high for agriculture,
and can never be made as valuable for any other crop as for the present crop of
trees. It has been shown over and over again that if these mountains were to be
stripped of their trees and underbrush, and kept bare and sodless by hordes of
sheep and the innumerable fires the shepherds set, besides those of the millmen,
prospectors, shakemakers, and all sorts of adventurers, both lowlands and
mountains would speedily become little better than deserts, compared with their
present beneficent fertility. During heavy rainfalls and while the winter
accumulations of snow were melting, the larger streams would swell into
destructive torrents; cutting deep, rugged-edged gullies, carrying away the
fertile humus and soil as well as sand and rocks, filling up and overflowing
their lower channels, and covering the lowland fields with raw detritus. Drought
and barrenness would follow.
In
their natural condition, or under wise management, keeping out destructive
sheep, preventing fires, selecting the trees that should be cut for lumber, and
preserving the young ones and the shrubs and sod of herbaceous vegetation, these
forests would be a never failing fountain of wealth and beauty. The cool shades
of the forest give rise to moist beds and currents of air, and tbe sod of
grasses and the various flowering plants and shrubs thus fostered, together with
the network and sponge of tree roots, absorb and hold back the rain and the
waters from melting snow, compelling them to ooze and percolate and flow gently
through the soil in streams that never dry. All the pine needles and rootlets
and blades of grass, and the fallen decaying trunks of trees, are dams, storing
the bounty of the clouds and dispensing it in perennial life-giving streams,
instead of allowing it to gather suddenly and rush headlong in short-lived
devastating floods. Everybody on the dry side of the continent is beginning to
find this out, and, in view of the waste going on, is growing more and more
anxious for government protection. The outcries we hear against forest
reservations come mostly from thieves who are wealthy and steal timber by
wholesale. They have so long been allowed to steal and destroy in peace that any
impediment to forest robbery is denounced as a cruel and irreligious
interference with "vested rights," likely to endanger the repose of
al1 ungodly welfare. Gold, gold, gold ! How strong a voice that metal has!
"
O wae for the siller, it is sae prevailin'."
Even
in Congress, a sizable chunk of goId, carefully concealed, will outtalk and
outfight all the nation on a subject like forestry, well smothered in ignorance,
and in which the money interests of only a few are conspicuously involved. Under
these circumstances, the bawling, blethering oratorical stuff drowns the voice
of God himself. Yet the dawn of a new day in forestry is breaking. Honest
citizens see that only the rights of the government are being trampled, not
those of the settlers. Merely what belongs to all alike is reserved, and every
acre that is left should be held together under the federal government as a
basis for a general policy of administration for the public good. The people
will not always be deceived by selfish opposition, whether from lumber and
mining corporations or from sheepmen and prospectors, however cunningly brought
forward underneath fables and gold.
Emerson
says that things refuse to be mismanaged long. An exception would seem to be
found in the case of our forests, which have been mismanaged rather long, and
now come desperately near being like smashed eggs and spilt milk. Still, in the
long run the world does not move backward. The wonderful advance made in the
last few years, in creating four national parks in the West, and thirty forest
reservations, embracing nearly forty million acres; and in the planting of the
borders of streets and highways and spacious parks in all the great cities, to
satisfy the natural taste and hunger for landscape beauty and righteousness that
God has put, in some measure, into every human being and animal, shows the trend
of awakening public opinion. The making of the far-famed New York Central Park
was opposed by even good men, with misguided pluck, perseverance, and ingenuity;
but straight right won its way, and now that park is appreciated. So we
confidently believe it will be with our great national parks and forest
reservations. There will be a period of indifference on the part of the rich,
sleepy with wealth, and of the toiling millions, sleepy with poverty, most of
whom never saw a forest; a period of screaming protest and objection from the
plunderers, who are as unconscionable and enterprising as Satan. But light is
surely coming, and the friends of destruction will preach and bewail in vain.
The
United States government has always been proud of the welcome it has extended to
good men of every nation, seeking freedom and homes and bread. Let them be
welcomed still as nature welcomes them, to the woods as well as to the prairies
and plains. No place is too good for good men, and still there is room. They are
invited to heaven, and may well be allowed in America. Every place is made
better by them. Let them be as free to pick gold and gems from the hills, to cut
and hew, dig and plant, for homes and bread, as the birds are to pick berries
from the wild bushes, and moss and leaves for nests. The ground will be glad to
feed them, and the pines will come down from the mountains for their homes as
willingly as the cedar came from Lebanon for Solomon's temple. Nor will the
woods be the worse for this use, or their benign influences be diminished any
more than the sun is diminished by shining. Mere destroyers, however,
tree-killers, spreading death and confusion in the fairest groves and gardens
ever planted, let the government hasten to cast them out and make an end of
them. For it must be told again and again, and be burningly borne in mind, that
just now, while protective measures are being deliberated languidly, destruction
and use are speeding on faster and farther every day. The axe and saw are
insanely busy, chips are flying thick as snowflakes, and every summer thousands
of acres of priceless forests, with their underbrush, soil, springs, climate,
scenery, and religion, are vanishing away in clouds of smoke, while, except in
the national parks, not one forest guard is employed.
All
sorts of local laws and regulations have been tried and found wanting, and is
the costly lessons of our own experience, as well as that of every civilized
nation, show conclusively that the fate of the remnant of our forests is in the
hands of the federal government, and that if the remnant is to be saved at all,
it must be saved quickly.
Any
fool can destroy trees. They cannot run away; and if they could, they would
still be destroyed, -- chased and hunted down as long as fun or a dollar could
be got out of their bark hides, branching horns, or magnificent bole backbones.
Few that fell trees plant them; nor would planting avail much towards getting
back anything like the noble primeval forests. During a man's life only saplings
can be grown, in the place of the old trees -- tens of centuries old -- that
have been destroyed. It took more than three thousand years to make some of the
trees in these Western woods, -- trees that are still standing in perfect
strength and beauty, waving and singing in the mighty forests of the Sierra.
Through
all the wonderful, eventful centuries since Christ's time -- and long before
that -- God has cared for these trees, saved them from drought, disease,
avalanches, and a thousand straining, leveling tempests and floods; but he
cannot save them from fools, -- only Uncle Sam can do that.
Copyright © 1997 by The Atlantic
Monthly Company. All rights reserved.
The Atlantic Monthly; August, 1897; "The American Forests"; Volume #LXXX,
No. CCCCLXXVIII; pages 145 -157.